Brian McGinnis

The past 3 years, I have had the opportunity to do a good amount of Hobie 33 sailing each late summer and fall. There are some things I have witnessed regarding this boat that I thought was worthy of noting. When in doubt, I recommend contacting Juan Mauri or utilizing Mauri Pro Sailing and the Hobie 33 Tuning Guide for additional information. I just noticed today that they are in the process of revamping the Hobie 33 Class Association website.

My Notes:

Being that the Hobie 33 boats I have sailed on have been moored during the season, I have discovered a noticeable speed boost after cleaning the hull. The keel and rudder are the most important areas to focus on when cleaning the bottom of the boat.

Crew weight is another critical aspect of sailing this boat.  The Hobie 33 is a relatively light boat for its size.  This year we started trying Juan Mauri’s recommendation of having a crew of 7 persons and weight of 1050 pounds.  This was very helpful compared to previous years where we had sailed with less people and less weight.  Most recently, we sailed a big regatta with a crew of 9 people weighing closer to 1300 pounds and we did even better.  I remember during the race that we were all thinking we could have even used another person or more weight for much of the race.  The sailing conditions for this race were 11-17mph with gust up to 22mph.

One of the major topic of discussions with the boat owner has been the lines utilized during racing.  It is my opinion that one should always try to use the thinnest lines recommended for control lines and rigging.  I have came to this point of view after 30 years experience in smaller boats. In the smaller boats, the compelling reason for utilizing thinner lines is that they simply go out faster.  I also find they tend to get fouled up less and are easier to untangle when those occasions rise.  When appropriate, it is simple enough to make braided handles and wrap the handles with some electrical tape to make grip and strength a non-issue.  I also agree with Mauri’s point of view that lines should be at the minimum needed length for similar reasons.

Spinnaker work was also a big focus this summer. After much practice, I can see the points Juan Mauri made in his tuning guide now.  The Spinnaker seems to fly best when it is stretched out a bit.  What I mean by this is that one wants the pole on the mast to be level at all times except when gybing and doing a pole dip. From dinghy sailing, I was always coached to try to level out the clews of the Spinnaker when downwind sailing.  However, one wants to ensure that the Windward Clew is not able to rise above the Leeward Clew, this is very important.  When in doubt, one should have the Windward Clew slightly down of the Leeward Clew or ensure there is sufficient downhaul on the pole to prevent it from rising above. The boat will feel sloppy and a bit out of control when the Windward Clew rises above the Leeward Clew.

The other interesting observation was during upwind sailing.  Sometimes the boat would feel a little funky when flat, but the boat speed would always be good when it felt it like that.  When in doubt, keep the boat flat and aim for an Apparent Wind Angle of 27-30 degrees, the boat seemed to moved well in this zone.  When the big puffs come, ease the jib an inch and keep driving for speed.  The other thing I noticed was that during tacks, the boat would seem to drive well by keeping the Mainsheet tight and letting the Traveler slide to the new Leeward side during the tack.  Once situated on the Windward side of the boat, bring it back to centerline.  The boat would accelerate nicely by doing so if the genoa work was keeping pace.

Rigging Questions to be Answered:

Mainsheet Block Placement – One of my biggest pet peeves with the Hobie 33 default setup is that the mainsheet block resides behind the traveler. This setup consistently causes tangles with the traveler during tacking situations.  It also forces the mainsheet to be moved behind the traveler during tacking maneuvers forcing the skipper to take on mainsheet duties.  I can see from Mauri Pro Sailing’s Mainsheet and Traveler System Page that there does not appear to be a system where the mainsheet block resides on the traveler track.  This would seem like a logical setup to me, enabling the skipper and crew better boathandling options during tacking maneuvers.  I don’t see anything in the class rules that would forbid such a setup, but I would like to have a conversation with some class members before proceeding with such a purchase. I do find the Harken Windward Sheeting Car – Midrange boat setup to be enticing though. The other thought I have is whether it’s class legal to put some kind of wire shackled extension at the end of the boom?  This extension would utilized to reduce the amount of mainsheet that would need to be trimmed or eased by reducing the distance between the the two blocks.  It would seem logical to do this since it doesn’t seem possible to trim the Mainsheet into two-blocked. I’m not sure how long an extension I would want there yet, but it would most likely be between 8-12″.

Genoa Trimming – I find it very easy to be overpowered as a genoa trimmer on the Hobie 33.  It is also very difficult to get the Genoa in sufficiently by hand when the breeze is on.  One thing we learned this season is that when the boat would get overpowered and want to round upwind, it is very critical to ease the jib so that the skipper can keep the rudder in the water and keep the boat driving without rounding upwind. This is very challenging work for the trimmer since one needs to get down to the crank constantly to bring the genoa back in.  Ultimately, crew weight on the rail would be preferable. I notice on Mauri Pro Sailing’s Genoa Trimming Page that there are some options for a Double Sheave (HAR1632) and Double Control Block (HAR1515).  I would really like to see a photo of this setup in action, I am confident that this could alleviate the muscle beach effort struggling with the Genoa.

Vang, Cunningham, and Outhaul – Here is another area where I think more photos of the rockstar setups would be helpful to see in action.  I notice that Mauri’s Tuning Guide mentions a 6:1 outhaul system but it is confusing on how to implement that system.  The Vang and Cunningham systems sounds similar to what one may see on a Laser these days, but it would also be helpful to see photos illustrating their implementation.

Control Lines and Rigging (See Hobie 33 Owner Guide for Line Lengths):

When in doubt, I recommend purchasing a little extra lineage and trimming down after testing out the lengths on the water. Leave extra lineage for your Vang, Outhaul, and Cunningham braided handle loops at the ends.  Apply electrical tape to improve grip on the handles.

• Backstay Control Line – 1/4″ New England Rope Sta. or 1/4″ Spectron
• Main Halyard – 5/16″ New England Rope Endura Braid with a Key Pin Shackle. (Exit Port Side of Mast)
• Genoa Halyard – 5/16″ New England Rope Endura Braid with a Heavy Duty Snap Shackle. (Exit Starboard Side of Mast)
• Spinnaker Halyard – 1/4″ New England Rope Endura Braid with a Snap Shackle. (Exit Starboard Side of Mast)
• Topping Lift Line – 1/4″ New England Rope Sta. (Exit Starboard Side of Mast)
• Outhaul Line – 1/4″ Spectron for holding Line, Endura Braid for purchases. Optional: Take off both ends of boom and replace outhaul system, use 6:1 Harken micro block system and 3/16″ prestretch line.
• Vang Line – 5/16″ New England Rope Endura Braid with an Eye Splice or 1/4″ Spectron line with an Eye Splice.
• Cunningham Line – 1/4″ Spectron for holding Line, Endura Braid for purchases.
• Downhaul Line – 1/4″ New England Rope Sta.
• Genoa Sheet – 3/8″ New England Rope Sta. At least 2 sets.
• Mainsheet – 3/8 inch. New England Rope Sta.
• Traveler Control Line – 1/4″ New England Rope Sta.
• Twing Line – 1/4″ New England Rope Sta.

Below are the parts of the Hobie 33 Class Rules I find most interesting, the full class rules can be found at http://www.hobie33class.com/hobie33-class-rules.htm

Spars (From the Class Rules):

a) The spars (mast, boom) shall not be altered except the internal halyards and control lines may be exited at the owner’s discretion.

b) Spinnaker pole maximum length including fittings shall be 13.125′ measured with the pole in place from the front centerline of the track on the mast to the pole end where the guy touches the forward bearing surface inside the jaw. The minimum diameter shall be 2″. The pole may be constructed of carbon fiber.

Running Rigging (From the Class Rules):

a) Running rigging may be of synthetic rope or wire. Kevlar and/or spectra lines are permitted.

b) Spinnaker boom foreguy may be rigged with 2:1 purchase.

c) A boom vang with a maximum 8:1 purchase with an integral jamming cleat is allowed. Solid vangs are permitted providing they are not hydraulic.

d) Backstay purchase shall not exceed 16:1 and shall be by block and tackle method.

e) Two mainsheet traveler control lines with a maximum of 3:1 purchase.

f) Types of mainsheet blocks and cleats are optional but may not be located more than 1.0′ from the traveler track.

g) One cunningham control using a maximum of 6:1 purchase, and cleated at the mast. Block and tackle method only.

Sails (From the Class Rules):

a) The use of any material is allowed.

b) One mainsail, four jib/genoa head sails, and three spinnakers may be used while racing. Two additional spare Class legal sails may be carried while racing in the event of sail failure.

c) The mainsail, jib and genoa, may be fitted with transparent windows of any material.

d) The sails shall conform to the ISAF Rules unless specified herein.

Mainsail (From the Class Rules):

a) The headboard may be of any material.

b) The cross width measurements shall be taken from the three-quarter and half points on the leech, located when the head is folded to the clew for half-height points, and when the head and clew are folded to the half-height point to determine the three-quarter points.

c) The maximum three-quarter height-width between the leech and the nearest point on the luff, including the luff rope, shall not be more than 4.75′

d) The maximum half-height width between the leech and the nearest point on the luff, including the luff rope, shall not be more than 8.0′.

e) The sail shall have four battens.

f) The top batten shall not be less than 7.0′ below the top of the headboard.

g) At least one reef may be built into the mainsail. The bearing surface of the cringle, delta ring or reefing devise in the leech shall be fitted not less than 11.5′ measured in a straight line, from the clew.

h) Cunningham holes may be fitted in the luff. A leech tensioning cringle may be fitted in the leech as well as a leech line. Camber line are also permitted.

Jib (From the Class Rules):

a) 100% foretriangle or less jibs may be fitted with reefing attachment points or devices.

b) A leech line is permitted as well as camber lines.

Genoa (From the Class Rules):

a) The genoa shall not be greater than 155 % of the foretriangle and a minimum size at the owner’s discretion.

b) The leech shall not be convex.

c) A leech line is permitted as well as camber lines.

Spinnakers:

a) The spinnaker shall be a three-cornered sail, symmetrical about its centerline.
(Asymmetrical sails may be allowed in non-Class events)

b) The sail laid out on a flat surface, shall be measured when folded in half about its centerline, with the leeches superimposed. Sufficient tension shall be applied to remove wrinkles and creases along line of measurement.

c) The length of the leeches shall not be more than 36.625′. D) The maximum girth shall not be more than 23′

Fixed Fittings and Equipment to be Carried When Racing (From the Class Rules):

a ) The minimum standard equipment that shall be carried are: eight floor boards, port and starboard pipe berths, companionway hatches, and safety gear as specified by the organizing authority.

b) Anchor and rode of suitable weight and strength for anchoring vessel must be carried at all times.

c) An engine able to propel the vessel at an adequate speed shall be carried on board at all times.